50 After 50: The West Coast

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Last summer Mark and I had extra time off together in August, when it’s hot and humid, so we searched for an area with nice temps to spread our empty nest wings with yet another trip. A co-worker suggested San Francisco, mentioning how beautiful the west coast is. After internet searches that included temperatures, Trip Advisor information, an Oregon state park guide and a look at the Rand McNally Road Atlas, plane tickets flying to San Fran and returning from Seattle, Washington seemed perfect! Nine days to make the trek along the Pacific ocean! Impossible to see it all, we chose the highlights, rented a car, and made hotel reservations in strategic towns along the way. Who knew what beauty awaited!

Day 1 — Travel day on Southwest from Nashville to San Francisco thru Las Vegas. Since we were traveling on our Marine son’s birthday, we chatted with him in the airport before leaving Nashville. We ate airport food in Las Vegas and arrived in San Fran in the dark, then took the SamTran to our hotel. The airport in San Francisco is large and a little intimidating but it was exciting. Finding our way around a huge city in the dark was interesting. After some help from the bus driver, we exited at our stop and walked to the hotel with a backpack each, pulling suitcases. Probably not the safest thing to do.

Day 2 — We woke early with a whole day to spend in San Francisco. We had an early afternoon Alcatraz reservation so we caught the bus and headed downtown to find the Pier area. The diversity of the city was evident traveling thru Tent City, one of several large areas where the homeless live. We exited where the buildings were taller than I imagined they would be, but there were also market vendors, a farmers market, and street cars all around. With our city map, we located the Pier area, then rode an old fashioned electric street car and got our first look at the Bay area — sailboats, pigeons, bikes, fresh fruit, and a constant breeze. It was exciting and electric, a new world to us both. We found Pier 39, which is a little city in itself, with sea lions, a carousel, fresh peaches, waffle ice cream cones, shops, diversity, and more fun.

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The Alcatraz Ferry leaves from Pier 33, our next stop. Walking among the bike riders, buses, street cars, pigeons and other pedestrians, we found the Alcatraz entrance and waited for our tour time. Riding the ferry across to Alcatraz, we saw kayaks and sailboats in the rough water. The Cell Block audio tour was a highlight. Walking thru the cell block with a narrative set of headphones, listening to former guards and prisoners tell of their experiences, was surreal and informative. A definite must do! We visited the Warden’s gardens and got our first glimpse of the Golden Gate Bridge.
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Next stop Mason Pacific for dinner, a recommendation from someone in our hometown. Located right along the street car trolley route and because of time and the number of people waiting, we decided to walk to the restaurant. After walking up a VERY steep San Francisco street, we ate fresh salmon and some delicious veggies plus a delicious peanut butter dessert.  Did I say steep San Francisco street?

After dinner we waited for a street car, then rode a people packed car down the hills. What fun! Everyone was videoing with their phones while I simply held on, amazed at the driver and his ability to maneuver thru the busy Saturday evening streets.

While we waited for the next city bus to return to the hotel, we saw several homeless people. One in particular seemed to be in his own world. He saw and conversed very animatedly with people that were not there. On the bus ride, I met a lady from New Zealand who was in town bringing her only son to America on a golf scholarship for college. She commented on the different languages also.

Day 3 – We took our first ride with UBER to the San Francisco airport to pick up the rental car. We reserved online with Alamo, used their self check out service, then proceeded to the rental area to choose a gray Chrysler 200. Next stop —the Golden Gate Bridge! What a busy place… cars, people, bikes. One side of the bridge was reserved for bike riders only. We made our way to the parking area and circled several times before finding a parking spot. We walked about half way across the bridge in the breeze, seeing a tug boat, a helicopter doing tours under the bridge, a sea lion off the point, and of course the beautiful bridge itself. An amazing structure… and again lots of diversity in people, languages, ethnicity.

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Leaving San Francisco, we headed to Eureka, CA via Hwy 101, 128 and 1. Today there was a LOT of driving. Once we made it to the coast on Hwy 1, we stopped to take in the beauty of the Pacific. The first time I have laid eyes on this ocean.

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Mark felt like he was driving in a video game along Hwy 1. We began to see Redwoods and stopped in the Navarro River Redwoods area. The sizes of the redwoods were amazing as were the quiet hushed sounds in the forest.

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We arrived late for our reservation in Eureka and crashed with a plan for tomorrow.

Day 4 – After a short drive to Trinidad, CA, we visited the Memorial Lighthouse, then climbed down a steep set of steps onto the beach. It was a cool, cloudy morning to bask in the beauty of the water, the rocks, and the gray sand. We explored the beach, a beautiful serene place where sea lions and sea gulls were hanging out on the rocks. Murphy’s Market and Deli provided us the opportunity to shop for food supplies.

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We ate lunch near the beach then headed north on Hwy 101 to Patrick’s Point State Park where we discovered Wedding Rock, the Yumeg trail and our first Tsunami warning signs. At Wedding Rock, I called my mom in Tennessee and let her listen to the water crashing on the rocks. Climbing rocks, feeling the ocean breeze, seeing the beauty of untamed waves was incredible.

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We drove on to Prairie Creek Redwood State Park where, before entering an 8 mile long gravel road, we saw a group of Elk. Our destination of Fern Canyon involved crossing 3 creeks on a winding narrow road in the dark dusty shadows of the Redwoods. At the trail head we gathered a few snacks, hydration bag and went for the walk to Fern Canyon. A small creek with 50 to 60 feet walls on each side all covered in five fingered ferns… it was breathtaking. We climbed over and walked across downed Redwood trees until the canyon opened up, then wound our way back. Quite a place of refuge and beauty.

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Before leaving Prairie Creek we stopped to enjoy the California ocean one last time. Barefoot in the sand, with snacks and a beach towel, we parked and went out to the beach. We walked in the cold water a little, then sat watching the waves pour in and out while eating our snacks. A full day of beauty. After watching more elk for a while, we headed to Brookings, Oregon for the night.

Day 5 — After several days of breakfast snacking, we decided to eat breakfast out. What a great find – Mattie’s House of Pancakes in Brookings, Oregon. It’s a local place where the waitress knows everyone’s name. They had great food…. we shared a spinach omelet with hash browns and the most delicious french toast! Off to Harris Beach State Park where we met some very friendly Oregon park workers along the path cleaning brush. This beautiful beach looked like a playground of driftwood. We collected shells, walked barefoot on the wet sand and enjoyed this Oregon coast view of the Pacific.

Traveling further up the coast to Shore Acres State Park, the view of the coast was rugged, stunning and holds a dangerous beauty mile after mile. Thankful for a GPS and Trip Advisor, we chose to visit the botanical gardens at Shore Acres. Over 800 rose bushes and plants from every country in the world; a beautiful display to see. Here, we took a trail to Simpson Beach and we were mesmerized sitting in the sand and walking along the shoreline on a beautiful sunny day. Water crashing on the rugged coastline of rocks, Mark collected a few shells and gave them to two little girls. When we could tear ourselves away from this beach we walked along the observation deck trail for yet another beautiful view. Onward to Reedsport, Oregon for our next hotel reservation, then out for dinner where we tried the local Clam Chowder Bread Bowl and found The Dean Creek Elk Viewing area. Herds of elk live here, we watched for a bit then decided to start here early in the a.m. with breakfast in hand.

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Day 6 — We got an early start (to a cool 49 degree morning) equipped with peanut butter, apples and McDonald’s coffee as we drove back to the Elk Viewing area. It was amazing to watch the elk as the sun came up on a quiet, hushed, cool morning. Good morning Oregon! We watched some female and young bulls from a distance thru binoculars, and witnessed four bulls much closer. They must be voted to represent the herd, and they do it well!
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Reedsport also had the most beautifully decorated street lamps. Each post was covered with a crochet piece or pink basket of petunias. A small town that takes great pride in its beauty.

Oregon Dune Natural Area was our next stop. Did you know that Oregon has the largest sand dunes in the United States? Not wanting to miss out on the beauty, it was no small task as we hiked in the deep sand to the beach. This particular sand trail was one mile to the beach! No small feat indeed.. we named it the ‘trail that never ends’ and stopped often to shake the sand out of our Keenes. Arriving on the beach, we found it totally isolated so we spent some time on our ‘private beach’ finding amazing shells and wandering in and out of the water with our bare feet. The mile back was no easy task either, like walking in deep snow only warmer temps in the sunshine! This was definitely the most physically challenging event of our trip.

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Headed north on Hwy 101 we visited Heceta Head Lighthouse and followed an uphill path, surrounded by wild blackberry bushes, to a stunning view where the operational Lighthouse stands. Completing the Lighthouse tour taught us of day and night signs of the Lighthouse, plus the story of how it was built and maintained. Fascinating information and a beautiful sunny day to see yet another piece of Oregon’s coastline. Before leaving, we spent more time sitting on the beach, eating snacks, watching families with young children playing in the sand.

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After checking in at our next hotel in Newport, Oregon, we had dinner by the bay at Local Ocean Seafoods and a visit to some shops. We saw a boat selling fresh tuna and were entertained by the many sea lions on the floating docks. “I’m from Tennessee and have never seen a tuna before, can you show me one?” So many first for my eyes…an adventure indeed. We purchased some Oregon made souvenirs, Tillamook Cheese and even saw a Medical Marijuana Business where they announced “recreational use coming soon”.

Day 7 – Yaquina Head Natural Area is where we visited Cobble Beach and looked at Tide Pools. We saw our first star fish, anemones, gum boot, sea urchins, coral lite, sea snails and hermit crabs on this beach.

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A true highlight of the trip. Volunteers work the area to help preserve and teach visitors how to safely visit the sea life present. We saw Harbor Seals laying on the rocks and learned from a volunteer the difference between these and Sea Lions. These seals do not have the ability to ‘walk on flippers’ and do not bark. They ‘galloof’’…fun term… around like an inch worm. On the path back to the lighthouse from the beach, a volunteer had a lens set up to watch a set of nesting birds called Cormorants. I watched a mom and dad feeding their young from her lens. We visited the lighthouse, the interpretive center, before heading north to Beverly Beach.

Just a short stop at Beverly Beach where we pulled a Chevy Chase — ‘we’re here, let’s take a photo and head out.’ Near Lincoln City, Oregon we used Trip Advisor to find local interests and decided to find The Alder House, definitely a glass blowing experience to see. We arrived in time to watch two vases being made, very beautiful and interesting to watch. Another Trip Advisor idea was Taft Bay where we saw people crabbing. Another, “I’m from Tennessee and have never seen…” moment. Mr. Bills Smokehouse and Fish Market was our last coast area stop where we purchased salmon jerky on a skewer and souvenirs for our sons – jerky! Leaving the coast, heading in toward Portland we stopped for gas and learned that is it illegal in Oregon to pump your own gas. Only one other state, New Jersey, shares this law.

Driving through Portland, Oregon mid rush hour and following a GPS blindly, we maneuvered among the train, cars, bikes and pedestrians. It seems a city that deserves another visit. Arriving at our reserved hotel,  in Longview, Washington, we used Trip Advisor and had a late dinner at Urban Saloon & Grill. Yummy salmon and steak.

Day 8 – Headed to Seattle for our next hotel reservation we made a short stop at Lattins Country Cider Mill. A farm where we had apple cider and apple doughnuts, saw a rhubarb garden, white peafowl and a multitude of other animals.

We made our way to the car rental return at Seattle – Tacoma airport then off to the shuttle for our hotel.

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Arriving in a big city and using their public transportation is a bit unsettling. Both the bus drive and hotel staff helped us make it to the Light Rail for a trip downtown to Pike Place Fish Market. We arrived late afternoon, walked thru the market, heard some music, ate at an oyster bar then headed to SafeCo Field to see the Mariners play the Texas Rangers.

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The stadium smelled of garlic fries, the night was beautiful, and the seats were great. A perfect end to such an amazing trip. After the game we made our way back to the Light Rail, then the shuttle back to the hotel.

Day 9 — Not enough time to really get out and see anymore of Seattle so we slept in, used the hotel indoor pool, ate their deluxe breakfast, then headed to the airport a little before noon. Arriving very early, a security person asked if we were returning from vacation.. I replied, ‘Yes, it’s necessary.” Alaska Airlines planes caught our eye in Seattle, and the Cruise Ships Board Here signs only whet our appetite for that trip one day! We flew Seattle to Denver to Nashville arriving late and hungry so we ended our trip with a late meal at Applebees in Nashville.

People ask us what our favorite thing was. It was all so wonderful. So new and so fresh. Others ask us if we liked this better than our recent Wyoming trip. Both trips were simply amazing, beautiful and adventurous. So thankful! My favorites all run together, all 1000 miles of that beautiful west coast. New happy places abound in my mind. Oregon beckons our return as well as Wyoming. Dr. Seuss said it well.. O the Places we will go!

I think I’ll tell you about Wyoming next.

Happy Travels!
Beverly Alice

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1 Comment

  1. Debra Hight
    February 21, 2016 / 6:45 pm

    Great story!! My sister lives on the bluff in Taft Bluff, gorgeous!

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